December 15 2012
L'auberge du Vieux Puits is set remotely in the countryside in Fontjoncouse that no one would ever remember it weren't for Gilles Goujon's place. It is not the setting either. The restaurant has been renovated with a very debatable taste. I do not dare commenting any further since it I don't want to offend Mrs Goujon.
Anyway, this is about food. And there Gilles Goujon nailed it.
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| Appetizer |
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| Butter |
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| Oyster and its pearl |
The pearl is a made out of blown sugar inflated with smokey flavours.
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| "Rotten egg" Tuber melanosporum, truffle and mushroom mash, warm brioche and cappuccino |
The 'rotten egg' which looks like a perfectly normal soft-boiled egg from the outside reveals a runny inside made out of fragrant truffle cream. A very pleasant and aromatic surprise.
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| Inside the "Rotten egg" |
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| Frog-back-and-leg lily, herb cannelloni, snail ravioli with garlic cream and cress |
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| Red mullet, Stuffed potato, Saffron foam |
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| Pigeon breast cooked on the bone with figs on an offal toast |
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| Praline shell, sour clementine |
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| Wild fig roasted is a spice syrup, cinnamon, orange flower ice cream in an anise blown-sugar bulb |
Gilles Goujon's generosity and technique was brilliantly exposed in this wonderful dinner. It is really worth the trip. Having to walk back to the tacky rooms was like coming down to earth. It remains however a truly memorable gastronomical experience.
L'Auberge du Vieux Puits
5 Avenue Saint-Victor,
11360 Fontjoncouse
+33 4 68 44 07 37
http://www.aubergeduvieuxpuits.fr/
When I was at Auberge du Vieux Puits, recently, (beginning of December), I wanted to try something close to the pigeon you had. Filet de perdreau or Suprême de canard sauvage are what they had available and that could have been 'alternatives" to the pigeon. Alas, my stomach was too full and I missed that opportunity. I can see that they have cooked your pigeon to beautifully rare consistency, which is my preference. I also had a piece of frog leg filled with a coulant of wildcress that was to die for. I can see that you also had something a bit similar.
ReplyDeleteHm, yummy. thanks for your report!
ReplyDelete