An interesting thought about cake construction...
Reference: Checkerboard cake...actually a plausible idea
Wednesday, July 31, 2013
Eric Desbordes - 114 Faubourg
June 14th 2013
114 Faubourg is the annex of Eric Fréchon's Epicure at the Hotel Bristol. The 3-star chef has delegated the lead to the talented Eric Desbordes.
The cod was marvelously cooked (mother-of-pearl-white inside) with a wonderful spring medley of asparagus and mushrooms.
Presenting the poultry in two services allows the perfect pitch cooking. First the breasts which remain tender and moist are served.
The cooking is resumed with the thighs which then become like a 'confit'.
Eric Desbordes is clearly a brilliant chef who can clearly deliver gastronomical dishes worth of a multi-starred restaurant. Now the concept of 114 Faubourg is to present bistro-style comfort food. It is obviously extremely well executed but I guess it is not what I go to a restaurant for especially with those prices. I thin I'd rather spend the difference and sit at l'Epicure where I think I'll get a worthier deal.
114 Faubourg
114 Faubourg is the annex of Eric Fréchon's Epicure at the Hotel Bristol. The 3-star chef has delegated the lead to the talented Eric Desbordes.
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| 'Sacristain' Cheese sticks |
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| Verbena cod fish, broad beans, asparagus, chanterelles |
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| Fish and chips |
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| Beautifully roasted guinea-fowl in two servings |
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| First the breasts and wings |
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| Then the thighs liek a confit. |
Eric Desbordes is clearly a brilliant chef who can clearly deliver gastronomical dishes worth of a multi-starred restaurant. Now the concept of 114 Faubourg is to present bistro-style comfort food. It is obviously extremely well executed but I guess it is not what I go to a restaurant for especially with those prices. I thin I'd rather spend the difference and sit at l'Epicure where I think I'll get a worthier deal.
114 Faubourg
114 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré,
75008 PARIS
Phone: +33 1 53 43 44 44
Phone: +33 1 53 43 44 44
Monday, July 1, 2013
Low-temperature veal rib-eye
June 25th 2013
No need for complex and expensive tools to experiment low-temperature cooking. I have rather successfully experimented the following recipe for a veal rib-eye.
I place the rib in a very hot pan for about 2 mins on both sides. The meat should get some color and should somehow stop sticking to the pan (Maillard reaction). Then I take it out, and put it in a oven at 120°C (250°F) for 25-30 minutes. You can even lower the temperature to as low as 55°C but then you will have to wait for a very long time (about 20 hours according to Mr Blumenthal)!
While the meat is slowly cooking in the oven, I deglaze the cooking juice with cream... and morels of course!
Despite its appearance, the meat will be fully cooked and will get extremely tender.
See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Low-temperature_cooking
See also http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maillard_reaction
No need for complex and expensive tools to experiment low-temperature cooking. I have rather successfully experimented the following recipe for a veal rib-eye.
I place the rib in a very hot pan for about 2 mins on both sides. The meat should get some color and should somehow stop sticking to the pan (Maillard reaction). Then I take it out, and put it in a oven at 120°C (250°F) for 25-30 minutes. You can even lower the temperature to as low as 55°C but then you will have to wait for a very long time (about 20 hours according to Mr Blumenthal)!
While the meat is slowly cooking in the oven, I deglaze the cooking juice with cream... and morels of course!
Despite its appearance, the meat will be fully cooked and will get extremely tender.
See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Low-temperature_cooking
See also http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maillard_reaction
Nicolas Castelet - Ralph's
June 26th 2013
The setting of the Ralph Lauren's flagship store in Paris is magnificent. Having dinner in the courtyard of this city mansion is fabulous. The service is unexpectedly professional. I had wrongly assumed a Costes-brother-like service, but it is on contrary courteous and efficient.
This is all too nice for the type of food which is served here. Ingredients are said to be coming from the best sources (including Mr Ralph Lauren's personal ranch for the beef). However, the preparation barley exceeds the level of home-cooking. It is disappointing as I am sure they have the means to deliver something absolutely fantastic.
Two excellent snacks retained my attention though: the fried olives and the caramel pop-corn, the kind of things you can't stop nibbling.
Next time, I will take pictures of the setting in order to fairly reflect the experience.
Ralph's
173, boulevard Saint-Germain
75006 Paris
Phone: +33 1 44 77 76 00
www.ralphlaurenstgermain.com
The setting of the Ralph Lauren's flagship store in Paris is magnificent. Having dinner in the courtyard of this city mansion is fabulous. The service is unexpectedly professional. I had wrongly assumed a Costes-brother-like service, but it is on contrary courteous and efficient.
This is all too nice for the type of food which is served here. Ingredients are said to be coming from the best sources (including Mr Ralph Lauren's personal ranch for the beef). However, the preparation barley exceeds the level of home-cooking. It is disappointing as I am sure they have the means to deliver something absolutely fantastic.
Two excellent snacks retained my attention though: the fried olives and the caramel pop-corn, the kind of things you can't stop nibbling.
Next time, I will take pictures of the setting in order to fairly reflect the experience.
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| Crab cake |
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| Rib-eye, garlic, spinach and fries |
Ralph's
173, boulevard Saint-Germain
75006 Paris
Phone: +33 1 44 77 76 00
www.ralphlaurenstgermain.com
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