Romain Meder - Alain Ducasse at the Plaza Athénée

February 10th 2015

A view on "Naturality", Alain Ducasse's new concept.

Romain Meder, after some time in the Middle-East, has taken the lead over the Plaza Athénée in replacement of Christophe Saintagne (discussed here) who had moved to Le Meurice. Chef Meder has been given the difficult task to serve this "Naturalité" concept. We're told it is about an healthier cuisine centered around seafood, cereals and vegetables... It reminds me somehow of what Alain Passard has been working on since the 90's and of Thierry Marx's Parisian concept at the Mandarin Oriental (Oh Dear, how much do we miss his Cordeillan-Bages days!).

What does it look like? See hereafter.
Truly, the meal is lighter and more digest. But isn't there a risk to lose the indulgence? This time, I am glad this was still the season for truffles which were lavishly shaved over many dishes. I am glad also to have received the friendly and professional service from Denis Courtiade the exceptional maitre d' and Laurent Roucayrol, the expert sommelier.

At least with this concept, thanks to the healthier and more reasoned menu (and contrary to many fine-dining temples), you can have this food for every meal, that is of course if budget permits!

The new furniture

Off with the tablecloth

Mackerel and celery

Caviar, Caviar du Puy (lentils), light jelly, buckwheat crepes, caviar-flavoured cream

Erquy Scallops, crusted cauliflower...

... and truffles. 

Atlantic sea-bass, olives and young leeks

Jean-Louis Chave's Hermitage

Anjou quinoa, roots and mushroom hotpot... and truffles. A brilliant dish, maybe the best part of the meal!

Chocolate, coffee and roasted buckwheat

Rum Savarin, whipped cream

Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée
Hôtel Plaza Athénée
25, avenue Montaigne
75008 Paris, France
Tel. +33 (0)1 53 67 65 00
http://www.alain-ducasse.com/en/restaurant/alain-ducasse-au-plaza-athénée