Stéphane Jégo - Chez l'Ami Jean

if Johannes Vermeer had been at L'Ami Jean...

Stéphane Jégo by a Flemish master

Philippe Camdeborde's charcuterie still life

Scallop masterpiece

Sweet Diptych

Chez l'ami Jean
27 rue Malar 75007 Paris.
Tel +33 1 47 05 86 89
http://www.lamijean.fr/

Romain Meder - Alain Ducasse at the Plaza Athénée

February 10th 2015

A view on "Naturality", Alain Ducasse's new concept.

Romain Meder, after some time in the Middle-East, has taken the lead over the Plaza Athénée in replacement of Christophe Saintagne (discussed here) who had moved to Le Meurice. Chef Meder has been given the difficult task to serve this "Naturalité" concept. We're told it is about an healthier cuisine centered around seafood, cereals and vegetables... It reminds me somehow of what Alain Passard has been working on since the 90's and of Thierry Marx's Parisian concept at the Mandarin Oriental (Oh Dear, how much do we miss his Cordeillan-Bages days!).

What does it look like? See hereafter.
Truly, the meal is lighter and more digest. But isn't there a risk to lose the indulgence? This time, I am glad this was still the season for truffles which were lavishly shaved over many dishes. I am glad also to have received the friendly and professional service from Denis Courtiade the exceptional maitre d' and Laurent Roucayrol, the expert sommelier.

At least with this concept, thanks to the healthier and more reasoned menu (and contrary to many fine-dining temples), you can have this food for every meal, that is of course if budget permits!

The new furniture

Off with the tablecloth

Mackerel and celery

Caviar, Caviar du Puy (lentils), light jelly, buckwheat crepes, caviar-flavoured cream

Erquy Scallops, crusted cauliflower...

... and truffles. 

Atlantic sea-bass, olives and young leeks

Jean-Louis Chave's Hermitage

Anjou quinoa, roots and mushroom hotpot... and truffles. A brilliant dish, maybe the best part of the meal!

Chocolate, coffee and roasted buckwheat

Rum Savarin, whipped cream

Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée
Hôtel Plaza Athénée
25, avenue Montaigne
75008 Paris, France
Tel. +33 (0)1 53 67 65 00
http://www.alain-ducasse.com/en/restaurant/alain-ducasse-au-plaza-athénée

A holy lunch

What if you were to invite your French great-uncle, a venerable bishop who devoted his life to the Church without having completely given up on his love for food?

A possible menu for a pious after-mass Sunday lunch could be as follows:

• Sacristains au fromage and Jésus de Lyon
• Saint Jacques pôelées au beurre de Saint-Malo
• Saint Pierre, sauce cardinal aux artichauts de Saint Pol de Léon
• Saint Marcellin, Saint Nectaire, Tête de Moine
• Saint Honoré or a Religieuse au café

... and the perfect wine pairing would be a Saint-Véran with maybe a Chartreuse liquor or a Benedictine as a digestive.

Amen.

Eric Fréchon - Epicure

December 10th, 2014

With another visit to one of the Parisian temples of fine-dining: l'Epicure, the restaurant from the hotel Bristol, I got the chance to try a private banquet set up for a special occasion. After a quick tour of the kitchen, the remarkable Chef Eric Fréchon orchestrated a perfectly executed dinner in the now world-intangible-heritage french tradition! (not quite sure I have yet entirely grasped that concept yet but sure will it come clearer one day!).

Anyway, as usual the cooking was all comforting, refined, technical (that leek cooked in its own roasted skin was incredible!) and most importantly yummy.

The beautiful setting in the Castellane room

Caviar from Sologne, haddock smoked potato mousse, buckwheat crisp

Grilled leek, seaweed butter, "white pearl" oyster tartare, chive and lemon

Juniper berry roasted deer filet, port beetroot, celery mash, and Grand Veneur sauce (not shown)

Lemon zest millefeuille, salted butter caramel sauce

Epicure
112 rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré
75008 Paris
+33 (0)1 53 43 43 40
http://www.lebristolparis.com/eng/restaurants-and-bars/epicure/

David Toutain - A sunday lunch

Sunday February 1st, 2015

When you receive an invitation for a private sunday meal at David Toutain's, when the restaurant is closed, you know that something special is going to happen. We had the pleasure to discover his new extension which is warmly decorated and which feels homey. (Note to self: add this spot to the list of options for group dining!).

David warned us: "Today, this is simple!". Well, I love simplicity! Being able to turn salsify roots which we all remember from the gooey canteen version into the roasted and yet tender aperitive nibbles we got is a trait of genius.

See pictures below, and you'll get the idea. Another mention for the delicate mosaic of scallops and truffles (a tribute to Passard?) and the fully boned suckling pig which are things I'd like to see more often.

On a totally unrelated matter, it happens that David got awarded his first Michelin star the day after. No, we had absolutely no idea it would happen ;) wink, wink.

Most sincere congratulations,  David!

The newly added private room which can accommodate about 16 guests.

Roasted salsifies  with a white chocolate dip (exquisite!)

Perfect egg in a mushroom cream ans peanuts

Scallops and truffles

Pâté-croûte (gamey and tasty)

The chef presenting his slowly roasted suckling pig.

Suckling pig slices lightly seasoned with fragrant spices (including caraway)

Winter roots (turnips, parsnips, ...)

Pies from next door's Jean-François Piège's pastry shop

David Toutain
29 Rue Surcouf, 75007 Paris, France
+33 1 45 50 11 10
http://www.davidtoutain.com