Saturday, November 30, 2013

Razor clams and Pata negra

November 30th, 2013.

As an alternative to cooking razor clams in their shell, let's just have them sautéed with shallots, black olives, parsley, and olive oil.



For good measure, let's sprinkle some pata negra shavings on top.

Bertrand Grébaut - Septime

July 4th 2013

Septime: The Emperor's New Clothes


Why all the fuss about this place? I don't understand. I will skip the difficulties to get them on the phone for the booking and the reconfirmation, the incommoding noise-level and the lazy service to focus on food only (although those three topics would be worth a article on their own).

First, this restaurant adopts the sad latest trend of fixed menu. Not that I am particularly picky about what I eat but I like to have the choice. Moreover and most importantly, if the menu is fixed I expect a significantly better deal (given the savings on supplies).

So when for 60 euros, I only get some decent home cooking of meagre fish, lamb and a few vegetables along with mildly interesting organic wines, I feel ripped off.

And the press raves bout it, it is full every day. No entiendo.


Meagre fish, herbs, sea weed, bottarga, potato cream

Zucchini and anchovies

Monkfish, carrots

Lamb, eggplant, berries

Sorrel sherbet, pepper meringue

Chili sherbert, peach gaspacho


Septime
80 Rue de Charonne,
75011 Paris, France
+33 1 43 67 38 29

Thursday, November 28, 2013

Ferran Adrià - El Bulli

November 7th 2010 - Second and last visit to El Bulli.

What has not been said or written already about El Bulli? In my view, and despite the unfair let down of molecular cuisine from journalists who had previously pinnacled it, this place offered one of the most extraordinary food experience one can have.

For the closing season, it looks as if we were given the best of all techniques previously explored (liquid nitrogen, spherification, witful mimetism, etc.). Only this time, the menu was enhanced with luxury ingredients which I thought Ferran Adrià had moved away from: caviar, Alba truffle, etc.


The laboratory






Sugar Cane Mojito

Caipirinha (frozen) sandwich 

Almond-fizz with amarena

Nori seaweed with lemon

Beetroot ribbons in vinegar dust


Mimetic peanuts

Spherical olives

Shrimp tortilla

Gorgonzola globe

Flower in nectar

flower paper

Hazelnut-raspberries

Caviar and Hazelnut cookie - caviar cream with Hazelnut caviar

Oysters and bone marrow tartar


Boiled shrimp

Prawn two firings

Truffled caviar

Tartufo glass

Parmesan frozen-air with muesli

Tagliatelle of consommé - carbonara

Gnocchis of polenta with coffee and saffron yuba

Tomato tartar

Pinenuts shabu-shabu

Roses - Artichoke

Endive in papillotte 50%

Cold sea anemone with bernacles

Clams "ceviche" and kalanchoe cactus

Natural scampi

Turtledove with blackberry risotto and cardamom

Hare ravioli with "boloñesa" and blood

Wild strawberries with hare soup

Pond

Apple rose

Mimetic chestnuts

Candy floss tree

Box


When does it reopen?

In the meanwhile, let's comfort ourselves with http://www.bullipedia.com/


El Bulli
Cala Montjoi, Ap. 30,
17480 Roses 
Spain
www.elbulli.com