Sunday, June 30, 2013

Anne-Sophie Pic

September 24 2011

The humble and honest Anne-Sophie Pic came back to the family restaurant in 1992. Slowly, she pulled up the restaurant to the peak (pun intended) of its former glory. In 2007, she won back the 3 Michelin stars of her grand-father André Pic and her father Jacques Pic. The Maison Pic was indeed one of those monuments of the 1930's to 1960's like other world-famous restaurants like Fernand Point's Pyramide, l'Auberge du Père Bise, Alexandre Dumaine or la Mère Brazier.

One thing that stroke me when I entered the dining room was the shift between the discreet personality of the Chef Anne-Sophie and the general appearace of the interior which glitters with gleaming Baccarat candlesticks, shiny silverware and some opulent hanging cloth.

I regret this debauchery of lavishness which in my opinion doesn't get along the style of Anne-Sophie's cuisine and the history of the restaurant. This is probably the downside of obtaining the well deserved 3-Michelin stars. It seems it forces chefs to comply to some unspoken rules and makes them invest in some unnecessary and sometimes kitsch setting.

On the food front, Anne-Sophie Pic's dishes are delicate and well balanced. It is made out of simple and well sourced products. There's a lot of thinking in the design of the dishes. I remember of this choice to use a white balsamic vinegar so as to maintain the harmony of colors in the orange and carrot dish.





Carrot and Orange flower
Thin and fluffy carrot jelly, whipped orange-flower-scented yogurt  and Voatsiperifery

Plural Beetroot
Smooth and creamy textures with Blue Mountain coffee, Barberry

Coastal Dublin Bay Prawns
Rhubarb, green celery broth, lightly flavored with Tasmanian pepper

Small-scale fishing John Dory
Light steam, amber tomato consommé, grand cru Bora-Bora Tahiti vanilla and Martinique Rum 

Farm Pigeon
Poached in a lightly smoked broth, radish, turnips and sweet onions buttered with green anise. 

Revisited Brie de Meaux




Fig and Green Tea Matcha




Maison Pic
285 Avenue Victor Hugo
26000 Valence - Drôme
France
Phone: +33 4 75 44 15 32 
contact@pic-valence.com

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