Showing posts with label Sometimes I cook. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sometimes I cook. Show all posts

Monday, November 9, 2015

Tuesday, October 21, 2014

Cabbage and Pork Hotpot

Slowly entering winter mode...
Let's gently cook a cabbage, some carrots, a smoked pork shoulder, sausages...


... and let time performs its work:


Wednesday, October 8, 2014

A simple raw vegetable salad

Nothing fancy in the fridge?
Radish, cauliflower, pickles, tomato, carrots, yogurt and a few slices of garlic sausage.
It is still possible to produce a tasty and crunchy salad with a few raw vegetables.




Monday, December 9, 2013

Oxtail Parmentier

December 8th, 2013.

Winter is coming; bring out the comfort food!
Ladies and gentlemen, I present you with the oxtail parmentier.

What I like with this kind of dish is that nothing can go wrong. It is just a matter of time. The oxtail was cooked simmering for almost eight hours until the flesh was nothing but a melting delicacy. The broth was then reduced in a thick jus for three further hours. All was kept aside and reused until the day of serving. A little fork-mashed potato, a leftover of flavorful sirloin and some parsley on top, et voilà.




Saturday, November 30, 2013

Razor clams and Pata negra

November 30th, 2013.

As an alternative to cooking razor clams in their shell, let's just have them sautéed with shallots, black olives, parsley, and olive oil.



For good measure, let's sprinkle some pata negra shavings on top.

Thursday, November 28, 2013

Seafood platters

Just because it is the right season for oysters, let's feast on seafood platters.



Oysters from Oléron via the Edgar Quinet market. Lobster, crab, prawns, shrimps and whelks from the Poissonerie du Dôme.

Tuesday, November 26, 2013

White truffle - day two : Tagliatelle alla carbonara e tartufo bianco


November 26th, 2013.

White truffle shavings over some carbonara pasta dramatically enhance the flavour, taste and transforms a simple dish into a festive occasion.




Sunday, November 24, 2013

White Truffle (Tuber magnatum)

November 24th 2013

Following the Fiera del Tartufo in Alba from October 12th to November 17th, one can get those bewitching fragrant mushroom nuggets. The perfume of this earthy pearl is so incredible that smelling it is just as enjoyable as drinking a good wine.


Unlike the black Tuber Melanosporum which can be enjoyed raw or cooked, the white truffle is at its best just the way it is. It is the perfect companion for pasta, fish or white meat. Find it here with simple creamy scrambled eggs.




Sea urchins

November 23rd

The sea urchin season is on in France from late October to mid April.
Let's feast!


Wednesday, October 30, 2013

Veal trotter and whelk

October 27th 2013


The veal trotter is cooked overnight in a simmering broth. In the morning, it is entirely boned, rolled in tin foil in a sausage shape. It is left to cool down in the fridge. When cold the trotter is sliced. Each slices are fried in a non-adhesive pan.

Here it is served with whelks, a spicy mayonnaise and young spinach leaves.


Hugo Desnoyer Pigeon - two ways (Vacuum cooking experiment)

October 26th 2013


For this pigeon, I have asked my butcher (Hugo Desnoyer) to prepare the bird as follows:
- the breasts in one vacuum-sealed bag
- wings and legs in another vacuum-sealed bag
Of course, I also keep the carcass, heart and liver.

One hour for the breasts:
I have slowly cooked the breast in the sealed plastic bag in warm water (about 80°C) for one hour.

Over two hours for the jus, wings and legs:
The wings and legs were cooked in the same condition for over 2 hours. The carcass has been roasted for 15 minutes in a very hot oven and then dropped in a simmering broth for hours. Turnips were cooked in the then thickening broth for 15 minutes.

Just before serving I have seared the pigeon breast on the skin as well as the liver and the heart  for 1 minute. By that time the broth has turned into a thick jus.

Pigeon and turnips

The low temperature cooking maintain a very tender meat while the breast is still pink.
Of course the wings and legs are confit and the meat gets off the bone easily.

Scallop carpaccio

October 26th 2013

It is the scallop season again. Let's celebrate with a simple carpaccio. Thinly slice the scallops (or ask your fishmonger). Prepare the dressing with lime juice, olive oil, salt, piment d'Espellette, possibly dill. Et voilà.



Monday, July 1, 2013

Low-temperature veal rib-eye

June 25th 2013


No need for complex and expensive tools to experiment low-temperature cooking. I have rather successfully experimented the following recipe for a veal rib-eye.

I place the rib in a very hot pan for about 2 mins on both sides. The meat should get some color and should somehow stop sticking to the pan (Maillard reaction). Then I take it out, and put it in a oven at 120°C (250°F) for 25-30 minutes.  You can even lower the temperature to as low as 55°C but then you will have to wait for a very long time (about 20 hours according to Mr Blumenthal)!

While the meat is slowly cooking in the oven, I deglaze the cooking juice with cream... and morels of course!


Despite its appearance, the meat will be fully cooked and will get extremely tender.

See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Low-temperature_cooking
See also http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maillard_reaction

Sunday, June 30, 2013

Jean-Pierre Lopez - La Poissonnerie du Dôme

June 29th 2013


A remarkable fishmonger in Paris is la Poissonnerie du Dôme. Once you've tried it, it gets difficult to go elsewhere. The products are carefully selected for you and the preparation by the staff is exceptional.

Cooking those exceptional products is a bit scary at first but then when you don't screw up too much the result is quite rewarding.

Fish Tartare (Sea-bass, Salmon and Turbot)


Brittany lobster claw, mayonnaise, Salmon roe.

Surf and Turf Lobster
Brittany Lobster, Thick crispy and tender bacon, young turnips, veal jus.





LA POISSONNERIE DU DOME

4 rue Delambre
75014 PARIS
Phone: +33 1 43 35 23 95
www.poissonneriedudome.fr

Sunday, June 23, 2013

My visit in the Black Forest

June 23rd 2013

Sunday afternoon, a few cherries left, a chocolate tablet and a siphon...


A few more ingredients are required. Also notice the folded baking paper which will be used to shape the mousse.


Let's first quickly make some nougatine for the crispiness.


A bit of sugar in a pan.


Add a bit of butter and a pinch salt


Let it get some color.


Pour the caramel on almonds and shape it the way you like (or the way you can I should say) while it is still warm.


Tadaa! Nougatine in 4 minutes.

Now the mousse. Let the chocolate melt.


Let's make a ganache with panache!
Add sour cream, rum (actually it should be kirsch). Keep a low fire, chocolate should not boil or burn.



When smooth, pour in the siphon with 2 gas cartridges. 


Release the mousse in the baking paper mold, insert cherries inside. And refrigerate as quickly as possible so that the mousse stays solid.


In the meanwhile, we will have made some chocolate shavings, dipped a few cherries in the ganache, toasted some biscuit crumbles. After an hour or so, the mousse is solid enough and all elements can be put together.

A very personal view of a Black Forest dessert

Brittany Blue Lobster

June 22nd 2013

It is the best season for Brittany lobster. They have a lot of coral and prices are the lowest of the year. I am not going to discuss the difference in taste between a real Brittany lobster (Homarus Gammarus) with its american cousin (Homarus Americanus). Let's just say that blue is a tastier color. :)

Let's quickly execute the lobster. The killing is simpler (and quieter) than a corrida. A big sharp knife on the back of the head allows you to draw the blade to the tail and split the lobster in half. After the execution, you end up with two lobster halves waving at each other. Let's not get moved by this expression of nature. Let's just assume at this stage that the injury has been lethal and that we can proceed with the recipe. Add shallot, butter, put under the grill until the shell turns red.





You can keep the coral, the green thing (dark green not gray) in the head, it will turn red when cooked. You can cook it with butter and "Vin Jaune".



You can keep the claws for a later meal. Here with a "Duck Breast and Foie gras" pie from "Pain de Sucre" (watch out for a later post).


Saturday, May 4, 2013

Salade gourmande

What do you do when you get some exceptional dried-aged-in-spices duck breasts from the Halles in Narbonne ? The magret came from the 'Montagne Noir' booth.

I made a salad with pears, young rocket leaves and seared foie gras on a toast.



Good enough for a lazy sunday.

Thursday, May 2, 2013